I was looking at fuel system stuff today. Im planning on converting to an inline filter and shiny new lines, mosty components from Aeromotive. Lines will be Earls Prolite 350 hose with black connectors, which i may take a crack at asembling the lines myself. Main question i have is, what size line should i buy? ive been told -06AN, is that accurate?
Finished coating some parts in POR-15 today.
And got a wiper motor plug (hopefully enough wire)for my wiretuck courtesy of hb420.
Looks like some progress! Those shock forks look like they’ll outlive the body, haha. Por15 is pretty sweet
Thanks mrpenny, those brakeline brackets on there came from you my friend. :rockon:
Started disassembling the hubs. Got the rings off the back, and then removed the snap ring and the balljoints, now i need a press. Started taking some panel sealer off the engine bay and found a bit of rust in the seam on the passenger side in front of the shock tower, which i guess came from underneath in the wheel well. We’ll see when i get to cleaning the wheel wells up. I just hope all this rust can be fixed and i dont find anything too bad when i get to remove the rear bumper. I know already that both sides where the rear bumper mounts are rusted out.
Also i need some help choosing a welder for shaving my bay. What gauge is the body steel? I know i need one with gas and im trying to find a Hobart for a decent price. If not ill try a HarborFreight one to start off with.
So im planning on doing the Legend brake upgrade and ITR 5 lug conversion. The 5 lug conversion will be ITR rear trailing arms, and ITR front hubs machined to fit the DA wheel bearings, thats all i should need correct? The rotors im using are fastbrakes 11" with the dual bolt pattern. Should i expect to run into any issues with any other parts im using. Im using DA brakelines, DA suspension etc.
Also what can i do for rear brakes? I was originally going to go with EP3 rotors (4x100) and RSX-S rear caipers. Can i still use the RSX rear calipers? what rotors should i use? Should i just go ITR rear brakes?
Right on man, good to see you put them to use!
As for the body steel, I’m pretty sure it’s around 20g. Hobart makes decent cheap MIG machines, and you can’t go wrong with a Lincoln 125 either. If you get an HF special, convert that bitch to a solid wire set-up with some 75/25 gas, and it’ll do the trick too. Check craigslist, I always see decent deals on there
Can’t comment on the rear brake set-up though, as I haven’t had any experience converting to 5-lug. Have you checked some of the threads on HT? I have a couple bookmarked on my other comp I’ll try to get ya
Yea i did a bit of reading, not many HT articles though. Hopefully theres a 5 lug 11" rotor i can use with my Legend calipers for the front. Rears i think im just gonna go ITR brakes since the trailing arms will be ITR.
I ordered some US Chemical AllMetal to start filling the spot welds, and got some VHT Wrinkle Plus Red for the calipers along with a pair of Russell Speedbleeders for the front calipers. ill move along to the rear after the front is complete.
Started the wiretuck. Roughly followed Glynn’s (BLKACK1) article and got some on-the-fly help from him as well. Ill be picking up loom, sleeving and tape tomorrow to finish the passenger side up. I also may eliminate any unneeded wiring like anything going to A/C or P/S since its removed, ill have to dig those parts out to match up plugs though since i didnt label a few and im not sure what they belong to. The multi ground is the most confusing part because you have ground wire running literally EVERYWHERE, you have to just bundle them up, its almost impossible to keep them '“neat”.
Didnt have a grommet so i just stuffed a peice of loom in there for now.
Nice, this is what i did today to. As soon as i get up i will be soldering the wires back together for all of the passenger side lights and the horn. Was there enough wire for the wiper motor?
Yea man plenty, thanks again.
So now since i decided to go 5 lug with ITR rear trailing arms and front hubs im trying to find an 11" rotor that will work with Legend front calipers. Looking at the 5x114.3 bolt pattern it seems the most logical are S2000 rotors as theyre already 11" i beleive. Anyone think these will work? Im going to call Fastbrakes tomorrow and see what they suggest.
Cool i left you feedback… could you leave me some? Gl with the wiretuck, looking forward to updates.
Okay i figured some of this out. On the main harness i have headlight, foglight, 2 cornerlights, bumperlight, horn, and 3 plugs that go to the main harness. All of that is where it belongs. The problem lies with the subharness, what do i need from it? Im not 100% on which green plug goes to the rad fan and which is for the A/C fan. Two plugs im not sure of are at the top right, one is a single red wire with a female connector coming from one of the relays and the other is a white plug with 2 red/blue wires.
looking good Jordan. where did that harness unplug from. as far as I knew you could just unplug the subharness and be done with it as I did.
I realy nned to try and get that thread unlocked so info like this can be added:up:
Looking solid man 
Yea Glynn your right, I just foUnd out I can completely eliminate it. I’ve been speaking with Colin and we talked about options and settled with mimicing the RS non-AC wiring by running the fan from the ECT switch. When I get home I need to locate the switch and find the wire I need.
Tried to get a little bit done today. Worked on the tuck a bit. Took a trip to Harbor Freight and picked up some things. The grommet set was around $6 and was exactly what i was looking for.
I previously pulled the entire pasenger side harness into the car and deloomed everything, using zip ties to keep everything somewhat organized. I hooked up everything to the fusebox andset it aside, the ran only the 2 engine harness plugs back into the engine bay. Everything else goes out the apron. Some plugs you have to depin, which is a very simple process. Just do one wire at a time and keep track of everything.
I drilled my hole in the same location Glynn did in his write up, shot it with some black spraypaint and inserted the largest grommet in the set with some silicone sealant. The ID of the grommt fits 1/2" loom perfectly, when wraped with tape it will be a near waterproof seal.
Then further up the frame rail i followed Glynns guide and used the factory hole on the outside of the framerail, just so happens one of the grommets fit perfectly. Then i drilled from the engine bay side to try to minimize the metal shavings getting in the framerail. Theres 2 layers of metal you must go through and the shavings in between those layers may prove difficult to get out because the layers are very close together. ill be picking up a bendy retreiver magnet and try to get them out. ill be putting another grommet on the engine side where i drilled.
Since im removing A/C, the subharness with the 3 black relays and the fan plugs can get tossed. To mimic the non-A/C RS wiring you have to directly use the ECT signal wire. The signal wire ends up in the passenger headlight area, where it plugs into the A/C subharness. The wire is yel/grn and is on the plug in the pic below, use a multimeter to check for continuity between the ECT plug and this plug to make sure you have the right wire. The ECT wire goes directly to the fan motor along with power borrowed from fuse #12 or #21.
I also started removing the seam sealer and cleaning the spotwelds up for filler. I plan to smooth/featheredge the sealer with a autobody tool so it will be barely noticeable. It goes on over pimer and is painted over, so ill just get the car/bay primered and apply the sealer then take it in for paint or ask if i can apply the sealer there before they paint it. If they insist on doing it ill just let them. For the seam along the firewall, i want to get it primered and hammer that lip flat, then apply sealer over it.
I also got this to fill the spotwelds in.
awsome Ideal on the gromet jordan. that big gaping hole in mine is realy drfty so this should help that imensly.
looks like your having a lot of fun doing it
So i think i may have had a change of heart on the wire tuck.
My only concerns as ease of maintaining/repairing the wiring (having to pop the hood versus having to remove the bumper, fender, etc.) and if its ever in an accident the wiring in the fender would probably get destroyed. I think i can make it look decent enough on the passenger side with the harness in the bay but for the drivers side i need some opinions on whether the harness placement in the pic is safe or not. I dont have the motor to check the clearance right now, so im not sure if anything will interfere.
If you run it along the side of the frame rail you should be fine with clearance because that’s where the hardlines from the power steering use to run.
Jordan, I know where your coming from man. heres how I rationalized it. before tucking I was scared as shit of anything even close to wiring related issues, Afterward I was actually tremendously more confident tackling any wiring problem cause I know exactly where the wire ran, grounded, bundleds, ext, ext,
Come on man, dont give up:up:
beside I was actually just going to let you know I got the wire tuck thread opened back up and was gonna ask if you could post all the info about removal of the a/c harness;)
I’M just thinking it’s a more logical approach to leave the harnesses in the bay. Like I said in the event of a front end accident, wiring would probably be destroyed. Or if I had a wiring problem I’d have to remove the headlights, bumper and fender vs. Just popping the hood. The harnesses will be decently hidden and I’ll still deloom them, take up any slack and reloom them. Fusebox is still staying in the car.
I can still enter that info in the writeup, as soon as I get a chance.
I vote for fully tucking the harness. If you ever needed to fix it, you would know exactly what needed to be done because you originally wired it up. I really like that POR15 job on the suspension components, makes me want to go that route instead of powdercoating. Keep it up!