I dont think youre understanding me. Im not wiring anything up, its all factory wire. the only thing split from the factory harness is the fusebox wiring (inside the car). Im taking the loom off and taking up the slack then relooming the harness. I decided against putting the loom behind the fender because if , for any reason, i needed to get to that wiring id have to remove the bumper, fender, etc. If i left it in the bay all i need to do is pop the hood. Also, if my car ever got hit inthe fender area, the wiring would probably get destroyed. Remeber i still havent finalized this idea, just throwing stuff around.
Heres pics showing the approximate route of my harnesses. Im planning on fabbing up an airbox, so that will cover most of that harness. The passenger side will have the radiator reserve and wiper fluid so that harness shouldnt be very noticeable with the motor in, the bay will also be a dark color.
Run the harness on the bottom of the frame rails to keep it hidden yet still easly accessible
I understood what you meant. I was just saying, running the loom through the fender would be much cleaner in the end, even though it would make troubleshooting more difficult. I’m sure wherever you end up running it, it will look way better.
Got the drivers side basically done, im gonna hold off on taping everything up in case i need to make some last minute changes.
This is approximately where im hoping to runthe passenger side.
MMMEEEEHHHHHHHHh, I not sure if it looks as good as a full tuck but petty nice man 
No it def doesn’t look as “good” as a full tuck, but I’m more concerned with the functionality of it right now. Like I said I’m gonna take a crack at fabbing an airbox so most of the drivers side will be hidden regardless. This way if there’s a wiring problem it’s as simple as opening the hood to get to the harness.
Once the TypeR powerplant is in there the harnesses will be the last thing I’ll be lookin at 
Finally got the DA out.
DA in hover mode.
Sorry about dust on the lens.
Passenger side done and reloomed. Since I’m not doing a full tuck on the brakelines I figure this is sufficient in making the harness less noticeable while keeping it 100% accessible from the engine bay. Just have to decide whether I want to have all the holes welded over before I fill the spotwelds. What do you guys normally do with the black grommets on the shock towers? Just yank em out and weld over them? What about the holes on the rad support that are kind of indented? Seems like they’d be hard to fill in.
Drivers side shouldn’t be too hard. Might need to wait till some components are installed before can finalize the harness.
Skunk2
[QUOTE=white92LS531;2016521]Thanks alot, i know i was really happy with it. Playing around with the idea of putting black piping around the red panel. Just to hide some of the areas where the metal was imperfected.
I have the next 2 days off so ill be doing a variety of things in the garage. Ill have alot more pics of how the exterior stands (hideous haha) and maybe some engine bay shots. But for now, these just came in today…
I didnt know the fronts came with anchor bolts.
Im going to give the front kit a shot, my car wont be dumped, but tucking and hopefully the caster doesnt get too far off with approximately -1 degree camber all around. At the end of may the whole suspension setup will be going on at once. ill lower it, clock the RTA bushings properly Then send it for alignment and see how the caster turns out, if its good ill keep it, if not ill pick another kit for now. The rear kit looks great, looks very sturdy and very well made (and the front kit for that matter) plus i love hard anodized stuff, the finish looks so good.
EDIT- i dont know why it flips some of my pictures. When i upload to Photobucket the picture shows up correct in my folder, but when i upload it flips it. Sorry, i need to get a new camera.
Just a couple hundred more and ill be ordering the Koni/GC/function7 combo. 
[/QUOTE]
awsome,man ive got the same skunk setup,your gonna love the parts:up:
jridesa9- I’m still unsure of whether or not I’ll use the front kit.
Well I finished the driver side. Some of the hardcore guys won’t like it, but that’s ok. My main concern was with functionality/accessibility. The placement isn’t 100 percent, and I’m still open to suggestions as always. Keep in mind the locations where the washer fluid and coolant reservoir will be as they will hide some of the wiring.
Finished up with the coolant and washer res in place to get an idea of how it looks. The ziptie about halfway down the framerail will be replaced with a Milspec Adel clamp, everything else will use OEM wire management.
If you really want to restore a second generation Integra you gotta have to not drop in a Integra Type-R engine into the car instead build the original motor up. If you must add the VTEC unless it’s a B17A or a JDM B16A.
Thanks bro, btw I’m picking up that flaring tool. Ordered it from Home Depot.
Also, think I may lose the washers/reservoir. Wipers will stay.
Got quoted for bodywork/paint, started a little side project while I’m saving up. Gonna be brave and try and sand/polish the flutes out directly in front of the projector lens when I’m finished.
Also going to be removing the factory deadening and doing some Raamat/Ensolite I think.
Nice! What projectors are you going to be using?
Morimoto Mini D2S BiXenons, 5000k, optically clear lenses. Got some stuff today to sand the flutes with. Anyone know an easy way remove the sealant? I’m just gonna clean it off and use new stuff.
Ok got a solid plan to sand the flutes, just need the kit and to commit to it.
Meanwhile, decided to start repairing the small damages in the otherwise mint panels I picked up with my power lock stuff. The kit isn’t the shitty air dry type either. It actually comes with a tool that you heat up with an iron, and use that with the graining pads to cure the compound.
This is just the vinyl adhesive. You use this to secure the backing fabric and fill in any voids from deeper damage. This air dries and the instructions say it takes four hours, it also shrinks a bit so you build it up in layers and fill the final void with the colored vinyl compound. The first picture is damage from the seatbelt buckle.
