im not sure when it was installed because it was sent out with the block so i dunno when they put it in and they also balanced it dunno wtf that is but they did it
you should ask the machine shop when & how they installed your block guard. remember your a PAYING customer you should have the right to know what work was done on your parts. i hope they didnt really say they balanced your block guard because if they did id bring the block to another machine shop and have them check EVERYTHING over. sounds fishy
Dude, you should have been a little more involved with the rebuild. There are shops that wouldn’t take advantage of an uninformed customer and there are those that do. If you say they balanced “it” (what is “it” - crank, flywheel, other components, “blockguard”?) who asked for “it” - you or them? My guess is they suggested the balancing. Whether they did it is something else. Anyway, that’s all water under the bridge. Hopefully you went to a reputable shop that takes the high road. Let’s hope for the best (I concur with 91integra157 - seeing the guy apply sealant on the head gasket, deck and head makes me shake my head).
soo whats gonna happen to my engine with that sealant on it? and i will find out what was balanced on it. it looks like the crank was because i saw parts of it that was shaved off but i will find out and the block guard didnt really fit tight but i will ask when they put it in (before or after bore +hone)
well with the selant its not a hige deal like it isnt going to mess it up, just makes the gasket prone to failure and ironically can cause it to leak. but at the workst youdhave to pull head clean it and replace gasket. i use to see poeple spray copper spray on gakets to. not good for aluminum blocks and head. the block and head actually slide on each other while warming up and cooling off, and the sealant and copper spray dont allow it to slide and it pulls tha gasket.
oh ok ,what sucks is that is my 2nd gasket cause i was helping the mechanic and i didnt see the washers for the arp studs and i found them after he torqued the head down so i had to go buy a 2nd gasket from acura.we got it running fri nite but my oil pump leaks i didnt kno the oil pump o ring was sold separately and we reused the old 1 .so now i have to buy a new o ring and i spent all day sat trying to find 1 nobody in palmbeach county has 1 ,WTH so now i have to wait till tue
your mechanic didnt know you needed washers with the headstuds?? i dont know about him man…
neither do i lol he asked me for them i told him there wasnt any then he found them
does anybody know where tha green plug in the pic goes too? thanx
looks like the oil pressure sending unit. If you have a ls/vtec, even though this is off topic, it might be where your oil for vtec is coming from. If so then you need a T fitting so you can put the sensor back on. Just my educated guess cause the green plug on the back of my block goes to the sending unit just below the alternator.
You can see his Oil pressure switch at the end of the steel braided line and its only a 1 wire connect. The Green plug is for the Oil Temp switch which is located to the left just above the Oil pressure switch.
ok thanx guys , i look for that tommorow i didnt see where it goes to but i look again
4 year bump
I like the four year bump in all my search’s I’ve never seen this post. Nice stuff. Anyone wanting to do an LS or B20 build go for it. For years my LS would take down Vtec motors all day. Although I do wish I had a little better top end sometimes but a good cam will help that.
403’s like me 
Im building myself a nice little na b20b p8r setup myself; I have a couple different Ideas on how I am going to go about it, but I am trying to get the car up to par on maintenance and repairs before I go too crazy with the block.
Anybody have any updates
old setup: From this
To this…stock bottom, crower 403 cams, blox intake maniold, TDM hytech replica header
new setup : crower 403 cams, rs machine type r pistons, blox intake mani, tdm hytech header, valve job and milled 0.030…l’m lookin for 165-170whp and 125-130TQ
I do have an update sir!
I do not know my HP potential but I’m building a ls b18b rebuild so far
Sk2 intake Mani
68 mm Holley tb
Sk2 adj can gears
Complete brain Crower head: valves, dual springs, titanium retainers, 402 NA cams
Block has had fresh rehone
Parts I still need
Aftermarket rods
Head basket set
Then my daily will be ready for the swap
I also am currently swapping a b18c1 in my project DA
Any other tips or advice on NA rebuild?
Nice ass motor man!!!
Good insight, building a all motor B20B