Hi everyone. New member here.
This is my '91 DA with just TEIN S-Tech lowering springs on stock struts. It’s a 2" drop and the ride is comfortable except for a little bumpiness on bad roads. What struts would you all reccomend if I wanna keep these springs and the same drop??
[QUOTE=Luka;1665220]Hi everyone. New member here.
This is my '91 DA with just TEIN S-Tech lowering springs on stock struts. It’s a 2" drop and the ride is comfortable except for a little bumpiness on bad roads. What struts would you all reccomend if I wanna keep these springs and the same drop??..[/QUOTE]
looking a little ricy but w/e floats your boat…its just a thread with ppl posting they suspenion…so bump
I got some goodies for you guys 
Ksports 13k front 11k rear
RSR front strut bar
ITR brakes
Nissin Sport pads
Monkey Bars in the back
And this is the car
I also have Ksport LCA’s and a ST rear swaybar (upgrading to a progress bar)
For sale Koni 2812’s new never installed. Paid $750($3000) corner. Looking for mid $2k’s or so. If your serious and can use these, let me know asap. I would like to get them to someone that can have the fun that I wont be enjoying…
peace
Schu
MSchu18@yahoo.com
[QUOTE=jaydmDA9;1539766]Sportline:up:
[/QUOTE]
What color is this?
I’m using skunk2 pro s coilovers and i’m very pleased with them. The front is adjusted so the perch preloads on the spring (as shown in pic below). The back perch is adjusted about 1" lower than the front and it’s still a little higher than it needs to be. I’m going to be lowering it more tonight and evening the front and rear out.
Comparison of front skunk2 assembly and oem strut assembly
[QUOTE=gLok;1678443]
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looks good…get a set of rear mud guards,thin moldings and c/f hood or simply remove the hood emblem mmmm i would fall for it lmao bump though looks clean
[QUOTE=BigSung;1664723]It’s been about 3 weeks. Not sure what’s the sag in period, but I figure it might sag a tad. One thing to note, the front is lowered 1.8in. The rear is lowered probably only 1.3 - 1.4 in range, not the 1.5 in that it comes with. One notch was removed to make the wheel gap look a little more similar looking. Here’s better pics of the front and rear wheel gap. I’m also running with 205/50/15 wheels.
Front:
Rear:
Hope that helps.[/QUOTE]
bringing this back from the dead…
I’m about to put some Koni Yelows on instead of teh EF ohlins that are currrently on my car.
If you’re still about and reading this, when you mentioned dropping a notch on the konis, did you mean front or back?
dannyboy:Really good loking ride! A few questions for ya’…are those goodrich stainless steel brake lines? Did they make a noticeable difference? What kind of skirts do you have? Any rubbing issues between that rear sway and tie bar? Once again, good looking car.
Thanks for the comments 
The brake lines are EARLs SS lines. I did SO much at one time (whole suspension) and hadn’t drove the car in 2 1/2 years, so it’s hard to say if I noticed anything in particular, but the car stops on a dime. The side skirts are WingWest RS. The rear sway bar does rub on the Skunk2 tie bar when the car is jacked up and the suspension is at full droop in the rear (making it a real pain in the ass to install). But, during normal driving conditions, it’s just fine.
Hey snowguy, what steering wheel do you have in your car? Thanks
boma23, the rear.
thanks for the reply
sorry, but re-reading your post has confused me again tho :roll:
you say it’s lowered less than it should be in the rear, because you removed a notch…yet you removed the notch from the rear!
the car looks a teeny bit higher in the front
is the car on the highest perches at the front and middle at back?
or do you mean lowest at the front and midddle at the back?
basically, what perch front and rear lol? 
Before:
Lowered on Tokico Illuminas and H&R Race springs. 2.25" in the front and 2.0" in the rear.
I’ve never driven or even been in a car that was lowered more than 1" and it definitley has a noticable bounce to it. At first I had it set to 2 all around then changed it to 5 in the front and 4 in the rear and right now I have it at 3 in the front and 2 in the rear, and it seems that’s where I like it. I still have to install the revo upper control arm and correct the front camber but I did the washer trick to the rear and it looks fine. I got it aligned at Sears the other day and had a pretty bad experience, they charged me twice and I didn’t even get a print out of the results, they just assured me that the toe was within spec and that’s all I really care about at the moment. Probably going to get another alignment at a more reputable place after I install my camber kit sometime this weekend.
Next thing I’m probably going to do is replace all the bushings since most of the ones I’ve seen have pretty much dissipated and need to be replaced. I know I need to get some rims and tires, but I really don’t have the money and probably wont until the end of this year. But right now I’m looking to get some Rota Circuit 8’s in bronze with Falken Azenis RT-615’s.
Also I was wondering if it’s possible that the dust cover could be loose enough to hit up against the shock and spring and make a rattling noise.
BTW; Dannyboy, that is probably one of the sickest paint jobs I’ve ever seen on a DA :drool:. I hope when I get around to painting mine it looks half as good as yours.
The way wheelwells are designed on G2, the front always looks like it has more gap than the rear. Koni Yellows drops the front 1.8" and the rear 1.5" (or was it 1.4" hehe). I used the full drop on the front (1.8") and dropped the rear 1 notch less so basically I have less than 1.5", maybe 1.4 or 1.3. There are still more gaps on the front as you can see on the pics, but doing it this way seem to even out the drops slightly.
that’s why you go with a spring that has an uneven drop like 2" front and 1.8" rear or something… or buy coilovers
you guys make my stuff look weak 
i wish i knew how to put my ST front sway bar on