yea now ur just looking to spend money and show off lol. the aem ems is extremely expensive, but deffinately worth the money in the long run. more for the all out tuner though. and yes the 92 and 93’s are obd1 as far as i know.
AEM is nice, but I am now running Turbo Edit on my OBD 0, and it is more than enough for most people. AEM just has a whole bunch more features and fine tuning. For a street driven car, especially one with an internally stock engine, I see no reason for the AEM. Turbo Edit will get your car running great and reliable, and for the price of FREE (minus chipping and stuff), you can’t beat it! CROME is the OBD 1 equivelant, and I would go with that, also free.
so besides the fact its a piggy back what is bad about e-manage?
what cant it do that it should
note im not using it on a built motor and im only running low boost with only 440cc injectors
I think your at the limits with the injector size with the “BLUE” I think 450cc is the max you can use Its just a fuel system hack thats it nothing more nothing less just like the Safc.
But if its the ultimate version thats a better unit but still $$
well i for the very first time ever used turboedit last night. had never touched it in my life. within 15 minutes i had a basemap for a turbo setup and can tune from there. basically for the money, ur better off getting turboedit or crome or something of the sort. they are actually very easy to use and very easy to tune. :dance:
the emanage has no timing control, so you will have to buy an external device like the one MSD makes to retard the timing in boost. I have never used emanage, chipped ECU is so cheap, easy and reliable, and it packs everything into one unit.
deffinately worth just getting a chipped ecu. u can get one for as cheap as 140 from xenocron and they will send it with 2 basemaps to get u started untill u can get to a professional tuner. very good idea and very reliable.
coz im in australia who do i deal with to get one??? say a turbo edit or similar??? i want the tuning cable and the whole lot u know
sounds good guys… what does the chip and that cost for a turboedit
so should i use turboedit?? or crome?
if u have obd0 use turboedit if u have obd1 use crome. and u just got to look around where u are to see if anyone does tuning. if u go to xenocron’s site they have everything including already chipped ecu’s for sale and datalogging cables all the stuff ull need. go check them out.
i had a look last nite
but im still confused on what i need to buy i obviously need a ecu ill buy the prechipped ecus…
so what else do i need??
when i tune it i dont have to change the chips do i? i can just keep tuning the given chip…
what else do i need… what cable do i need? do i need a ostrich? or anything
Send a email to xenocron they will set you up
yea just do what the black guy said lol.
update
i just got an e-mail he gonna help me out anyone got a base map for a b18a i can borrow to play with
Not to thread jack, but I didnt feel the need to start another one since my question falls into this same topic, actually it is a multitude of questions.
First off, I am currently deployed to the middle east right now so I am saving my money for the fact that I found out that I have orders for when I get back to seattle in Jan or Feb to go to England for at least 2 years. Since I found that out, I have to change the plans that I currently had for my car, which was half cage, seats, takatas, wrappin up the suspension work that I had starter, which is not much, and a few little extras for the interior, holding off on motor work and spending the other ~$13k on a second car and new furniture and electronics for my apartment. Well the new plan is to ditch the idea on the second car due to the military only allowing me one car to ship for free to England. So with that said, I have around $10k to spend on my car to include the stuff I listed for the interior and suspension and a quaife, which will leave me with around $6-7k for motor work.
I am shooting for around 300-325hp. Before I left for here I had a JDM B18B put in with 185 across the board compression test and less then 30k miles on it. From what I have read this goal should retain good reliability and still be fun on the autobahn when I drive over to mainland Europe and around the UK country side. The questions I have are:
-
Will this kit get me to that range: http://www.turbo-kits.com/integra_turbo_kits.html It is the revhard one.
-
Ditch the FMU that comes with it and go with a tuning program like turboedit for OBDO? From the consensus I have read that is a yes.
-
What size injectors will I need for that power goal and any specific brand recommended?
-
Should I go with a victor x manifold coupled with a 65mm edelbrock TB, go with a bigger TB, or wont need it for that power goal?
-
Should I look into cams and cam gears? I have been looking at the crower stage2 turbo cams with stainless steel valves, springs and ti retainers? Do I need it for that goal?
-
Inregards to that kit should I go with the upgraded turbos (GT30R or GT35R) or will I need it?
-
Do I need a boost controler and if so any specific brand recommended?
Only reason I ask these questions, is because when I get back to seattle I have a very short window to get this all accomlished to include a fresh paint job of the exterior and engine bay and dont want to miss anythign when I go to order all the parts for the build and have to load it into the cargo container not running or missing stuff. I want to be able to drive to the docks in england and drive off with my car ready for the streets there. Last thing I want is to have to deal with that on top of everythign else that comes with moving into a new country which for all I know has very little support when is comes to the honda tuning community. I am not familiar when it comes to motor work and I appologize and like I said, wont have the time to jack anythign up when I get back home, so I want it to work right the first time and also last for the duration of the time I am in England. If there is anything I am missing feel free to chime in and let me know.
Oh yeah, who is the best tuner in the seattle area?
I will try to check in on this the next day or 2 to see what the replies are. This site is blocked on the government internet so I cant get on here everyday unfortunatly. :bang:
- maybe, but go for the peakboost or full-race. DRAG manifold sucks.
- Chipped ECU & tune = most important part of the build
- 550-680cc Precision or RC
- BLOX/SKunk2 manifold with 65-68mm throttle body will be good
- JG303’s or CROWER 402-T’s are good, cam gears arent really needed. Valvetrain is really only for higher revs, and I wouldnt push them on a stock bottom end, and especially since you need it to be reliable. ARP rod bolts are needed, at the least for the bottom end to hold high RPM’s reliably.
- GT30R, T3/T4 50-57 trim, GT28RS
- Yes, Greddy/HKS are good EBC’s, lots of good MBC’s too.
you need a lot more than that stuff too, but you probably know that (i hope).
255lph fuel pump
exhaust system
half size radiator
ARP headstuds are good insurance
wideband gauge/sensor kit
high flow cat/test pipe
vacuum lines
colder spark plugs
and more little stuff
Read the turbo guide and you should be good.
P.S. I don’t recommend turboing the car if you wont be able to fix all of the (small and large) problems associated with owning a turbo honda. If you are in england and it gets messed up, what will you do? Chances are someone there will be able to fix it, but what if they aren’t? There is going to be a lot more maintenance required once it is turbo, and I think that everyone wants it to work well the first time. The fact is that it usually doesnt work right the first time, and you have to mess around with it for a while until it runs well, and just hope that it lasts for a while. If you get a good tune and everything, it should be fine, but shit happens.
crome maps do u guys have one for b18a
[QUOTE=japanjay;1926808]Not to thread jack, but I didnt feel the need to start another one since my question falls into this same topic, actually it is a multitude of questions.
First off, I am currently deployed to the middle east right now so I am saving my money for the fact that I found out that I have orders for when I get back to seattle in Jan or Feb to go to England for at least 2 years. Since I found that out, I have to change the plans that I currently had for my car, which was half cage, seats, takatas, wrappin up the suspension work that I had starter, which is not much, and a few little extras for the interior, holding off on motor work and spending the other ~$13k on a second car and new furniture and electronics for my apartment. Well the new plan is to ditch the idea on the second car due to the military only allowing me one car to ship for free to England. So with that said, I have around $10k to spend on my car to include the stuff I listed for the interior and suspension and a quaife, which will leave me with around $6-7k for motor work.
I am shooting for around 300-325hp. Before I left for here I had a JDM B18B put in with 185 across the board compression test and less then 30k miles on it. From what I have read this goal should retain good reliability and still be fun on the autobahn when I drive over to mainland Europe and around the UK country side. The questions I have are:
-
Will this kit get me to that range: http://www.turbo-kits.com/integra_turbo_kits.html It is the revhard one.
-
Ditch the FMU that comes with it and go with a tuning program like turboedit for OBDO? From the consensus I have read that is a yes.
-
What size injectors will I need for that power goal and any specific brand recommended?
-
Should I go with a victor x manifold coupled with a 65mm edelbrock TB, go with a bigger TB, or wont need it for that power goal?
-
Should I look into cams and cam gears? I have been looking at the crower stage2 turbo cams with stainless steel valves, springs and ti retainers? Do I need it for that goal?
-
Inregards to that kit should I go with the upgraded turbos (GT30R or GT35R) or will I need it?
-
Do I need a boost controler and if so any specific brand recommended?
Only reason I ask these questions, is because when I get back to seattle I have a very short window to get this all accomlished to include a fresh paint job of the exterior and engine bay and dont want to miss anythign when I go to order all the parts for the build and have to load it into the cargo container not running or missing stuff. I want to be able to drive to the docks in england and drive off with my car ready for the streets there. Last thing I want is to have to deal with that on top of everythign else that comes with moving into a new country which for all I know has very little support when is comes to the honda tuning community. I am not familiar when it comes to motor work and I appologize and like I said, wont have the time to jack anythign up when I get back home, so I want it to work right the first time and also last for the duration of the time I am in England. If there is anything I am missing feel free to chime in and let me know.[/QUOTE]
Get a obx LSD i didnt see head studs or a oem headgasket
- Will this kit get me to that range: http://www.turbo-kits.com/integra_turbo_kits.html It is the revhard one.
It will get you there but that kits old school what are you going to be doing with the car any type of track use? if so what kind are is it just street that way u can pick a turbo for your needs
-
Ditch the FMU that comes with it and go with a tuning program like turboedit for OBDO? yes.
-
What size injectors will I need for that power goal and any specific brand recommended? 550cc and up I have some bosch 630cc for sale
-
Should I go with a victor x manifold coupled with a 65mm edelbrock TB, go with a bigger TB, or wont need it for that power goal? this matters on how you want your powerband
-
Should I look into cams and cam gears? I have been looking at the crower stage2 turbo cams with stainless steel valves, springs and ti retainers? Exospeed LS909 or JG303 cams for springs and retainers go with some from DH racing
- maybe, but go for the peakboost or full-race. DRAG manifold sucks.
- Chipped ECU & tune = most important part of the build
- 550-680cc Precision or RC
- BLOX/SKunk2 manifold with 65-68mm throttle body will be good
- JG303’s or CROWER 402-T’s are good, cam gears arent really needed. Valvetrain is really only for higher revs, and I wouldnt push them on a stock bottom end, and especially since you need it to be reliable. ARP rod bolts are needed, at the least for the bottom end to hold high RPM’s reliably.
- GT30R, T3/T4 50-57 trim, GT28RS
- Yes, Greddy/HKS are good EBC’s, lots of good MBC’s too.
you need a lot more than that stuff too, but you probably know that (i hope).
255lph fuel pump
exhaust system
half size radiator
ARP headstuds are good insurance
wideband gauge/sensor kit
high flow cat/test pipe
vacuum lines
colder spark plugs
and more little stuff
Read the turbo guide and you should be good.
P.S. I don’t recommend turboing the car if you wont be able to fix all of the (small and large) problems associated with owning a turbo honda. If you are in england and it gets messed up, what will you do? Chances are someone there will be able to fix it, but what if they aren’t? There is going to be a lot more maintenance required once it is turbo, and I think that everyone wants it to work well the first time. The fact is that it usually doesnt work right the first time, and you have to mess around with it for a while until it runs well, and just hope that it lasts for a while. If you get a good tune and everything, it should be fine, but shit happens.
I was looking at the 2 different peakboost setups and also the full-race one. I think I am going to go with that since they will allow me to go to a higher HP later on down the road once the block gets sleeved and forged pistons and rods. All the other stuff you listed as the little stuff needed I already new thats why that wasnt listed, just wasnt sure if the other extra stuff, ie: intake manny, cams, forged rods and pistons for only 300hp. I dont want to spend the money on it if it is not needed. I have other places on the car I would rather spend the money on if those thigns are not needed. I think I am going to go with a intake manny and TB just so the engine will breath better and hold off on the cams. This is just going to see the occasional track, but 99% of the time just to take maybe at night during the week and on the weekends to go drive out in the country side or into london or once a month on the Autobahn.
Here is the running list of the things I am buying come Jan in no peticular order:
- turbo kit
- arp head studs
- PWR civic rad w/12" slim puller fan
- Fullrace traction bar
- nuespeed front upper strut bar
- cusco front lower strut bar
- autopower half cage/w harness bar all powdercoated
- skunk2 rear lower strut bar
- sparco or momo non-reclining seats/w sliders
- takata 4 point harnesses with the 5 point adaptors
- defi gauges
- HKS boost controller
- OEM CF hood and trunk (roof cap if it is still available)
- 80mm RS*R GTII can with 3" piping run identical to the 2.5" GTII cat-back I currently have on there
- turboedit chipped ecu
- tune, tune, tune
- injectors
- spark plugs
- new paint job
- new rt615’s
- blox intake manny/w 68mm TB
- quaife lsd
- alarm system/w hidden back up battery
- exhuast tape
- High flow cat to pass entrance into the country then switched out once there to a test pipe which will be sitting in the car.
- obd0-obd1 harness
- obd1 distributor
- TomTom/w europes maps on it, to include all the speed cameras for every country
- GE fuel rail
- all the little stuff that is not listed since it would be a waste of my time
These are maybe’s:
- defi HUD
- volk honda edition ce28’s
- FAL glass all the way around
Once there I will be picking up a DD for work and grocery gettin so if this car breaks down I will not be pressed to get it back up and running. My boy that is currently over there now is really good with motors and he will be able to help me get it back on the road if it breaks down. Everything besides the motor work, turbo kit, and paint job will be done by me. I just want a shop, which I think it is going to be Intec in Kent,WA, to do the motor work so I know it will be done right.